On July 14, 1971, Mendocino was added to the National Register of Historic Places. This achievement was made possible by many hard-working individuals that sought to protect Mendocino’s unique charm and history. In honor of this 54-year anniversary, enjoy the words of Chuck Bush from April 2010.
In the late ’50’s when the Zacha’s were developing the Mendocino Art Center and adding a new dimension to the town, Auggie Heeser decided to give his land that was west and north of Heeser Drive to the State Fish and Wildlife Department, so that people would be able to go out on the headland and fish until the end of time. That event seems to mark the beginning of the efforts to keep the flavor of Mendocino as it had developed since the 1850’s—it was the first preservation effort.
Mendocino, 1971. Kelley House Collection.
In 1960 that land was transferred to the State Department of Parks and Beaches, in line with efforts to preserve the northern California coast in its natural condition. In the late ’60’s, the Boise Cascade Company purchased the Union Lumber Company of Fort Bragg, and by so doing, acquired over 70 undeveloped acres of headland south of Main Street, along with Big River beach. That company had, at other locations, built company housing on similar property, and the idea that something similar might be developed here stirred the townspeople. The Mendocino Headlands Park Committee was set up, led by Emmy Lou Packard and later by Mildred Benioff. It searched for, and found, an alternative with the help of William Penn Mott, the very able director of the State Department of Parks and Beaches. A swap was arranged so that the headland and beach property became a state park. In return, the lumber company received timberland located inland. However, Mott also felt that it made no sense to preserve the coastline if the town might be allowed to become an ugly eyesore. He specified there would be no deal unless the town set up a plan to preserve its uniqueness.
The first action taken was to submit, in 1970, the forms necessary for Mendocino to be accepted into the National Register of Historic Places. Significant in the proposal were pictures showing the town’s unique architecture, including the Presbyterian Church, MacCallum House, Masonic Hall, Chinese Temple, and groups of Main Street buildings. In 1971, the town was designated a National Historic District. Second, the Headlands Park Committee, with the support of State and County officials, created the Historical Preservation District Ordinance designed to protect the character and heritage of our picturesque town. An enormous amount of time and effort went into this project, which was finally approved by the County Board of Supervisors to become effective March 9, 1973. The ordinance set up our two historic zones, established the Mendocino Historical Review Board, provided the standards and procedures for review, and penalties for violations.
In the early ’70’s, Al Nichols, who inherited his cousin Auggie Heeser’s properties upon his death, sold the acreage located inside the Heeser Drive loop on the headlands to the State Department of Parks and Beaches. As a result, just about all the headlands that hadn’t yet been developed became state park land.
The Coastal Commission was organized in 1972, and four years later the California Coastal Act was passed by the legislature, mandating the development of sound coastal management plans, and localized responsibility to the counties and towns along the coast. In 1980 a Citizens Advisory Committee completed the Mendocino Town Plan as directed, and in 1983 this was adopted by the Board of Supervisors.
So today, the coastline of the Mendocino Headland and the entire western end of the Headland are protected as state park land, and will remain preserved in its natural state, hopefully forever. External changes to town buildings must be reviewed first by the County Planning Board and second by the Mendocino Historical Review Board. The former organization also reviews any changes to property within the Mendocino County coastal zone against the standards in the Coastal Act.
Members of the Review Board have the difficult assignment of making judgments regarding proposed changes to town buildings. Mr. Mott originally proposed for the whole town of Mendocino to become a museum, with the townspeople wearing period costumes, sort of living in a time warp. That was not what the townspeople wanted. It has been pointed out to me that they wanted to preserve the authenticity and flavor of this old lumber mill town with its unique and wonderful architecture, but they also wanted the town to be alive and to prosper. Allowing limited growth and change necessitated some sort of compromise to keep the town compatible with the past but not necessarily totally unchanged from the past.
The Kelley House Museum is open from 11AM to 3PM Thursday through Monday. ON TAP AT THE KELLEY HOUSE: The History of Brewing on the Mendocino Coast is on exhibit through September 29th. Walking Tours of Mendocino are available throughout the week; the cost is $25. Visit the Kelley House Event Calendar for a Walking Tour schedule.