In the late ’50’s when the Zacha’s were developing the Mendocino Art Center and adding a new dimension to the town, Auggie Heeser decided to give his land that was west and north of Heeser Drive to the State Fish and Wildlife Department so that people would be able to go out on the headland and fish until the end of time. That event seems to mark the beginning of the efforts to keep the flavor of Mendocino as it had developed since the 1850’s – it was the first preservation effort.
In l960 that land was transferred to the State Department of Parks and Beaches, in line with its efforts to preserve the northern California coast in its natural condition. Then in the late ’60’s the Boise Cascade Company purchased the Union Lumber Company of Fort Bragg, and by so doing, acquired over 70 undeveloped acres of headland south of Main Street, along with Big River beach. That company had, at other locations, built company housing on like property, and the idea that something similar might be developed here aroused the townspeople. The Mendocino Headlands Park Committee was set up, led by Emmy Lou Packard and later by Mildred Benioff. It searched for, and found, an alternative – with the help of William Penn Mott, the very able director of the State Department of Parks and Beaches. A swap was arranged so that the headland and beach property became State parkland. In return, the lumber company received timberland located inland. However, Mott also felt that it made no sense to preserve the coastline if the town might be allowed to become an ugly eyesore; he specified that it was no deal unless the town set up a plan to preserve its uniqueness.
The first action taken was to submit, in 1970, the forms necessary for Mendocino to be accepted into the National Register of Historic Places. Significant in the proposal were pictures showing the town’s unique architecture, including the Presbyterian Church, MacCallum House, Masonic Hall, Chinese Temple, and groups of Main Street buildings. In 1971, the town was designated a National Historic District. Second, the Headlands Park Committee, with the support of State and County officials, created the Historical Preservation District Ordinance designed to protect the character and heritage of our picturesque town. An enormous amount of time and effort went into this project, which was finally approved by the County Board of Supervisors to become effective March 9, 1973. The ordinance set up our two historic zones, established the Mendocino Historical Review Board, provided the standards and procedures for review, and penalties for violations.
In the early ’70’s, Al Nichols, who inherited his cousin Auggie Heeser’s properties upon his death, sold the acreage located inside the Heeser Drive loop on the headlands to the State Department of Parks and Beaches – so that just about all of the headland that hadn’t yet been developed became state park land.
In 1972 the Coastal Commission was organized and four years later the California Coastal Act was passed by the legislature, mandating the development of sound coastal management plans, and localized responsibility to the counties and towns along the coast. In 1980 a Citizens Advisory Committee completed the Mendocino Town Plan as so directed, and in 1983 this was adopted by the Board of Supervisors.
So today, the coastline of the Mendocino Headland and the entire western end of the Headland are protected as state park land, and will remain preserved in its natural state, hopefully forever. External changes to town buildings must be reviewed first by the County Planning Board and second by the Mendocino Historical Review Board; the former organization now also reviews any changes to property within the Mendocino County coastal zone against the standards in the Coastal Act.
Members of the Review Board have the difficult assignment of making judgments regarding proposed changes to town buildings. Mr. Mott originally proposed for the whole town of Mendocino to become a museum, with the townspeople wearing period costumes – sort of living in a time warp. That was not what the townspeople wanted. It has been pointed out to me that they wanted to preserve the authenticity and flavor of this old lumber mill town with its unique and wonderful architecture, but they also wanted the town to be alive and to prosper; allowing limited growth and change necessitated some sort of compromise – to keep the town compatible with the past but not necessarily totally unchanged from the past.
On Friday, May 14, at 4 pm, the Ford House will host John Mott, son of William Penn Mott, to talk about this history-making event. Immediately following, the Mendocino Historical Review Board will present their annual award. This is one of many events, being held throughout May, in honor of National Historic Preservation Month. Guided walk, talks, exhibits, and more will take place at venues throughout Mendocino County. Visit www.MendocinoHeritage.org for a full program.